To install the gauge pod, slide the T-bar mount up under the dashboard so that the threaded stud is sticking up.
Then, lubricate the adapter, run the assembly through a hole in the gauge pod, and attach it to the back of the gauge. This captures the ferrule and provides a seal. Stick the vacuum line into the adapter, then tighten the sealing nut down on it. Basically it goes like this: slide a sealing nut on the line, then follow it with a ferrule. To hook the vacuum line to the gauge, the gauge comes with a pack of hardware and instructions detailing their order. Theoretically, you should be able to tap into the headlight switch, but we've never been able to make that work. If you haven't been modifying your car just like ours, you'll need to run a wire to a parking light to get the signal. We already had other gauges installed on our Mustang (see the transmission temperature gauge and the oil gauge for details) so we just tapped into those for light. The light needs to get power when the rest of the instrument panel is illuminated, and no power at any other time. The ground can go to any good ground such as the structure or another ground wire. The gauge has one wire to power the light and one for ground.
Of course, the dashboard has to come apart to run all the wiring and the vauum line! It can't be easy! If your car's a manual, well, break out the drill. We're practically running a whole harness through it at this point. If your car is an automatic, there's a handy hole in the firewall to the passenger-side of the master cylinder. Run the vacuum line from the hole in the dashboard, around the bulkhead (avoiding kinks and sharp edges), and through a hole in the firewall.
Luckily, it's also not too hard to do: remove four Torx T-20 bolts and unplug two electrical connectors. To run the vacuum line, the instrument panel will have to come off. With those removed, gently pry the fascia off. It's held in place by two Torx bolts, size T-15. With the headlight knob out of the way, it's possible to pull the fascia off. It'd probably be easier to just buy a new one and break the old one off. We just fiddled with it for about a half hour till it fell off. Supposedly there's some sort of clip in there that you just loosen with a pick or punch, but we dunno. Pull the knob to its full-open position and look for a slit near the base. To get the front fascia off, you must first remove the headlight knob. To handle the wiring, you'll have to take the dashboard apart. The clock is wired to the car's power supply unplug it. All you have to do is push on the pod from the front it has clips on the front that hold it down. Disconnect the wires going to the accessory power outlet (cigarette lighter in the old days). It pulls off - be gentle to avoid breaking the cheap clips Ford likes to use everywhere. The clock pod pops loose with little difficulty. If you don't have a supercharger to tap into, well, you don't really need a boost gauge you dork! To hook the thing up properly, we used a Vortech 5/32" brass vacuum tee (#7P156-082) that tapped into a Vortech vacuum line. This gauge pod is a dual-gauge unit so think about what other gauges you might like to have - we went with an air/fuel ratio gauge. To make it easy, we installed a 2-1/16" mechanical boost gauge from Auto Meter (#3301) and we put it in an Auto Meter gauge pod (#10001) that replaces the factory doofy clock pod. After all, the amount of boost being generated is a pretty important piece of information: too much and you blow your motor too little and you probably need to have the thing warrantied. With the pending supercharger installation on the visiting 1995 Mustang GT 5.0, it was a no-brainer to isntall a boost gauge. We recommend Internet Explorer set to 1024x768.
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